The Ripple Effect

As a native Iowan, I am proud to say, once again Iowa produced more corn than any other state in the country.  In 2021 Iowa produced 2.5 billion bushels of corn, making it the #1 producer of corn in the U.S.  Illinois produced 2.2 billion bushels making it the 2nd most productive corn state.  In case you were wondering, Nebraska came in third and Wisconsin is much further down the list.  However, we are still the lead state for cheese, of course!

Since I grew up in Iowa, the beauty of growing cornfields was so commonplace I actually didn't give it much thought, until recently. Driving down roadways this time of year the corn has just about peaked in terms of height, but not ready to harvest just yet. As you drive and take a quick glance it is easy to spot an optical illusion, of sorts. The rows and rows of corn seems to move in a ripple pattern.

 This optical trick can only be achieved when the corn is planted in rows perpendicular to the road.  In Iowa that was usually the case.  In the beautiful rolling hills here in NW Wisconsin, some of the crops are planted in more curves, not rows.  The artistic beauty of the farmland is still present, but the ripple effect is not as frequently seen.  This ripple effect can also be found with some other crops, but it is much more evident with corn.  Think about our classic American tribute: America the Beautiful. Remember those "amber waves of grain"...waves. You can just see it rippling in the wind.  Although I usually picture wheat for that particular song visualization. Okie dokie...another important crop beautifying the landscape.

Now you may be thinking.... Julie what you been smoking? Or drinking?  Actually, nothing at all. Nothing that would hinder my ability to go out and enjoy the beauty of the season and also the joy of photography. The patterns and "ripples" in nature are a joy to behold and also to photograph.  Anyone that has travelled down a country road, especially this time of year...knows what I mean.

Antelope Canyon, Arizona

It's nice to appreciate what are seemingly the commonplace things in our world, things that perhaps we need an extra nudge to notice. There is beauty to be found in the cornfields. Beauty and patterns. Even if you are not a photographer...it's nice to explore the beauty in the everyday. Nature is full of interesting patterns. Another one that comes to mind is the ripple effect in stone that creates the illusion of waves.   An excellent example of this is found among the walls of the Antelope Canyon in Arizona. Just look at the way it could be perceived as ripples of water.

With all this talk about ripples, consider where the parallel got started...with water. Look at all the photographs dedicated to the beauty of water. I have many photos of waterfalls and it is intriguing to capture how water reacts in certain conditions.  Here's an awesome example of the Ripple Effect with water....

Photo by maxpixel.net

So enjoy the patterns of nature, what a lovely time of year to do that. When the snow starts to fly that will bring a whole new host of opportunities to looks at patterns...

Julie E. Smith

Midwest Travel Adventures: The SS Badger

 I have a wonderful longtime friend, Amy, who invited me to come for a visit to their family cottage in northern Michigan. From where I live in Wisconsin, it would be a loooong drive and of course that lovely loop around the bottom of Lake Michigan and Chicago traffic...ugh. However, Amy made the comment that there is a ferry that cuts across Lake Michigan, that might be an idea. Oh , my gosh and what a fun idea it was!  I got busy with the idea with several internet searches and then I got hooked on the idea. I formulated a game plan, and I booked my tickets!

I wasn't saving anything on travel time, but it sure made the travel more enjoyable and broke up the tedious time behind the wheel. If I had driven entirely by car, it would have been approximately 9 1/2 to a 10-hour drive. That time doesn't include meal stops, potty breaks and the evitable: "Oh, my Gosh I have to stop for a minute and get a picture of that...Wow!" People who travel with me know I am a real shutter bug; I can hardly wait to document the trip in photos. So, on the boat I could take as my photos as I wanted and did not have to worry about keeping my eyes on the road. The SS badger leaves from Manitowoc, Wisconsin and takes a scenic, leisurely ride across Lake Michigan and arrives in Ludington, Michigan about 4 hours later.

First and foremost, I love the name SS Badger! What a great tribute to the Wisconsin Badgers.  Upon my arrival in Manitowoc, I decided to go to the port and check out where I would be checking in for the ferry ride the next day. Originally, I was going to make the 4 1/2 jaunt across the state of Wisconsin and try to make it by 1 pm boarding time.  This was supposed to be a fun trip to eliminate stress, not create it. So with encouragement from friends, and my husband, I booked a hotel and would board the next day. Nevertheless, when checking out the waterfront I came across this fellow: a 14 ft. high Badger statue named: "Shipbuilder". The sculptor, Carl Vanderheyden, choose the name to pay homage to the long shipbuilding history in the city of Manitowoc. The fact that it is a Badger in the state of Wisconsin and right by the SS Badger dock...well that is an easy connection to make. It is an interesting statue, although a bit creepy if you look up into his eyes.   It's almost as if he is getting into attack mode.  Although makes for some great photo opps on the waterfront.

 

The SS Badger was originally built in 1952 for transporting railroad cars across Lake Michigan.  She is the largest Great Lakes car ferry ever constructed and is the only coal fired passenger steam ship currently operating in the United States.  After she began operating as a car ferry and cargo ship, car ferry traffic dramatically decreased, and profits declined. The Badger was sold to Michigan Wisconsin Transportation (MWT) company who in 1990 faced bankruptcy.  The ship's fate was rescued by entrepreneur/philanthropist Charles Conrad who purchased MWT and revised that mission for the Badger.  She was revamped to become a passenger focused ferry in 1992.   After transporting millions of passengers across the Lake, she was granted National Historic Landmark status in 2016.  Another tid-bit of information about the water route taken by the Badger, is that the route from Manitowoc to Ludington is officially designated as part of US Highway 10, so the ship completes a 565 stretch of highway spanning across fours states in the Midwest from Fargo, North Dakota to Bay City, Michigan. Not as impressive as Route 66, but nevertheless quite a long pathway.

 The system they have for loading the ship is truly amazing and streamlined. You check in, pull your vehicle up to a designated spot and leave your keys in the car.  This in itself felt weird, but they have a terrific system. Then they have a team of individuals on the "SS Badger Crew" that load all the vehicles on to the ship. That is quite an amazing feat, because this ship can hold up to 180 vehicles and also 600 passengers!  Frankly, the ship is so large and intimidating I was happy to have my vehicle loaded by experienced professionals. I have enough trouble lining my tires up properly in the carwash, much less going up the ramp and not into Lake Michigan! They looked to me like college students who had snagged a really good summer job. Young drivers, but when I was watching them...they did a great job and took great care with every vehicle. And with their bright orange vests it was easy to see that your car was not being taken by just "anybody."

Another bonus on this trip for me, in addition to seeing the beautiful scenery of Lake Michigan, I also got my "lighthouse fix" with great views of three lighthouse: one in Manitowoc, one in Ludington and one in Charlevoix. I enjoyed looking up the histories of these structures and once again marveling at the fact that there is a higher concentration of lighthouses surrounding the Great Lakes than any other place in the world. Which is not a surprise with over 10,000 miles of shoreline. As long as we are discussing lighthouses, it's also interesting that there are more lighthouses in the state of Michigan than any other state: 121 to be exact.

Manitowoc Breakwater Lighthouse
Manitowoc, WI.   

The first lighthouse I saw on this journey, was right in the harbor where the SS Badger resides on the Wisconsin side. Congress had appropriated $5,000 for the construction of a lighthouse at Manitowoc in 1837.  The original operated until 1877.  Construction of a large pier began when it was determined that a light on a breakwater was deemed more suitable. The Manitowoc lighthouse was re-built in 1918 and rises 50' high. It has an interesting design that wraps the lighthouse keeper's quarters around the tower. The previous structure had the tower and the lighthouse keeper residence separate.

Ludington North Breakwater Light
Ludington, MI.

After crossing the Lake on the Badger, drifting into the Ludington harbor I saw another iconic lighthouse: Ludington North Breakwater Light. When reading about the history of this Light, I found out why many structures are just called "lights" and not lighthouses.  Pretty logical explanation: no lighthouse keepers' quarters were attached. Simple enough, but I still have a tendency to call all such structures "lighthouses." At least now I know the distinction. 

The first Ludington light was constructed and lit in 1871. In 1924 the present tower was built with steel plates over a steel skeleton.  The unusual shape was designed to deflect the strong waves of Lake Michigan. With the SS Badger going in and out of the harbor, a summer tradition for folks is walking out on the pier to wave at the passengers passing on that gigantic boat passing by the breakwater. Conversely, as passengers we waved back to those on the breakwater by the lighthouse.  It just felt like mutual admiration and enjoyment of a tranquil, summer day.

The last lighthouse viewing, on this journey anyway, was not from the decks of the Badger, but worth an honorable mention: the Charlevoix South Pier Lighthouse.  My friend Amy and I travelled a little bit north to the city of Charlevoix. Charming little city with great shopping, cuisine and since the city is on Lake Michigan: a lighthouse! It is quite small, by lighthouse standards, but I think has a special charm.  It is owned by the city of Charlevoix, and it maintained and preserved by the Charlevoix Historical Society.  Originally it was built as a simple frame with a lantern on top.  In 1914 it was replaced with a sturdy steel structure and for years it was painted white.  In 1968, in addition to other refurbishing and restoration efforts, it was painted bright red as it remains today.

So many intriguing sights and adventures here in the Midwest!  I have always been a Midwestern gal; there is so much joy to be found right here in the Heartland.

De Rail the Train

 There's is an old adage that folks say in jest: when someone claims to have lost their "train of thought" then the jab back to that is: "it never left the station".  In my case that is sometimes true, but sometimes the train has gone barreling down the tracks racketing out of control.  I have always thought of myself as an optimist, but sometimes I have a hard time keeping my thoughts both on track and headed a positive direction.

I originally wrote this blog in September of 2021. At the time, I was dealing with my mother's declining health, her transition to assisted living and on another aspect of my life: the continued rejection of my book from book sellers. (Almost purely because of my choice of publisher, not the content....now tell me is that fair?!?) I was a wreck, my self esteem was at an all time low and I doubted almost every decision I made. I never meant to publish this, but the lessons I learned, and taught myself, become helpful in learning how to cope with stress. My Mom, who died on Christmas Day of 2021, would be proud of me for "journaling" these stressors and perhaps disseminating to others ways of dealing with stress. So here is what I was thinking last September, but the lessons I have learned from stress and grief are valuable today:

De-rail the Train

Staring at the ceiling and watching how the shadows play on the textures there. Lying comfortably and making the effort to flex, then relax my muscles in anticipation of sleep. Much needed sleep.

I practice my meditation breathing. Inhale through the nose, Exhale through pursed lips. Always makes me think of my Lamaze breathing so many years ago….

And as a woman of faith, I know that prayer helps ....in addition to the breathing exercises.  I frequently practice a mantra I heard a few years ago that really helps me feel the comfort of God's spirit with me. When you inhale think of "Grace"...inhaling the Grace of God.  When you exhale think of giving away your burdens or "Pain" to God. This does wonders for me, and helps you stay focused if you are trying to relax and go to sleep.

I close my eyes thinking that will turn off my brain just like a light switch, but it is at these times that it just opens the flood gates of thoughts in my mind and allows them to flow in all different directions.  Formulating so many different scenarios. When the tracks of my mind allow the train to accelerate to scenarios that are about the “worst case scenario’, I find myself demanding to “De-rail the train”. As strange as it sounds, I find myself repeating the mantra: De-Rail the Train until I get the disturbing, negative scenarios out of my head and bring myself back to reality. It only takes a simple tap on my forehead and once or twice repeating the chosen mantra to help me.

In addition to a mantra, to help me remove negative scenarios, especially if it is things I have absolutely no control over, there is nothing quite as helpful to me as the joy of beautiful photography. Both in taking it, and viewing others art. One can't help but have a sense of peace and Zen when looking at a photo like this one:

  Some people claim that if you think the worst, and things turn out better, well….then you will be pleasantly surprised.  I don’t think that philosophy works well for me.  It just makes me have a better descriptive image of the worst case scenario and doesn’t do anything to alleviate my worry. For me, it is better to pray, and also to remind myself of several bits of key advice that I have discovered in learning how to cope with stress.  Some may view them as empty platitudes, but for me they bring comfort and guidance. The first is from 19^th Century French novelist Balzac:

 

The next is from Kahil Gibran, author of the Prophet:

“Our anxiety does not come from thinking about the future, but from wanting to control it.”

This is something I should pay more heed to. It is good to plan for the future, but knowing that things can change is important to remember and many of those changes we don’t have control over.

So as I write these words I think of Jeannie, it would have been her birthday today. I hope and pray that you have found the peace you were so desperately looking for here on earth. May you and Alex be at peace. I think of you more often than I should and pray your souls, and my peace of mind....can finally be at rest. 

Perhaps sometimes I need to heed my own advice about finding peace.  I hope anyone reading this can find a little glimmer of hope and some wisdom in learning to deal with the many stressors that inevitable come our way.  Strive to be Happy and don't forget to breathe.

Can we Legislate Morality?

Can we Legislate Morality? This is an age-old question that has been kicked around since our Founding Fathers were drafting the Constitution and had extensive discussions on just how this young country should be operated.   This question recently resurfaced to me in light of the recent horrific shooting in Uvalde Texas, where 19 children and two teachers were killed.  Like many people I am incredibly shocked, saddened and my heart goes out to all the families.  I can't imagine their pain.  Why on earth would a person kill innocent children?  It goes beyond our understanding. Yet, in the days that follow, we ask and sadly ask AGAIN...what can be done to stop this killing that has become much too frequent in our lives? Now monumental discussions on the topic of gun control are everywhere we turn.

I was originally introduced to the philosophical debate of Legislating Morality in a political science class I took called: Politics, Law & Morals.  It was probably one of the best and most thought-provoking class I took.  Even though it was quite a few years ago, many of the debates still remain. We discussed abortion, gay rights, euthanasia and yes....gun control. And here we are today, grappling with many of the same issues.  This also came to mind with the recent discussions on Roe v. Wade.  I thought that was settled a long time ago. Apparently not. But don't get me started on that....perhaps that is a blog for another day.

What boggles my mind is the argument that you can't legislate morality. In my opinion, it is more a matter of semantics.  Laws can be passed to help formulate citizens into what the general population feels is "good and moral". Martin Luther King had some good insights on the subject:

“Morality cannot be legislated, but behavior can be regulated. Judicial decrees may not change the heart, but they can restrain the heartless.”― Martin Luther King Jr.

Martin Luther King was very wise in terms of how legislation can be used to help, in some ways, to reign in some of the terrible acts that inevitably happen in our society.  Many laws that are passed, do indeed protect and defend the moral codes that are generally accepted by the society. Then again, what moral standard do legislators follow if there are interests and rights that are in conflict? Right now I am thinking of gun control, gun owners rights and all the violence that is perpetuated in the last few years. How can it possibly be resolved to make all the people happy all the time?  Can it be accomplished without infringing on citizen's amendment rights?

There are no easy answers, it is a very complex issue.  Yet I believe more questions need to be asked if we ever can have hope of finding concrete solutions.

When thinking about the basis of law and legislation, legislation is formed by ethics and morality.  Morality stems from religion.  Yet, the definition of the moral law would depend on what society and or religion you are using as a benchmark. Is it Christianity, Hindu, Islam, Humanism?  True, many of the world religions that are used as the basis for determining moral law have more similarities than differences. Yet, differences are there and what do you use to formulate the law by still respecting the citizenries moral (and religious) beliefs?  It's a tough call, it really is.  Particularly in this melting pot country of ours.  Our forefathers prided themselves on all the freedoms we established for ourselves, but sometimes managing those freedoms for everyone brings many new challenges. If there is a will there is a way, I hope we can make things better.

Specifically, getting back to the terrible problem of gun violence in this country, I know several ideas have been tried.  I personally feel starting with the issue of mental health is incredibly important.  So many of these shootings were instigated by young people with mental health issues that had gone undiagnosed.  My thoughts are that if our schools (and church Sunday school programs, perhaps) could include a curriculum that emphasized not only good physical health but mental health.  Granted, my own children have been out of the school system for many years and I do not have a direct link to my local school system. 

 Nevertheless, I am sure improvements could be made to help students and adults understand that maintaining your mental health is JUST as important as your physical health.  The stigma of having to help (or fix a problem) with  your mental health has got to change in this country.   It took me many years to be able to say : "I have Bi- Polar disorder.  I take medication and I am dealing with it...." 

It's not something to be ashamed of. The chemicals in my brain are just different than others.  I remember my doctor telling me: "If you were diabetic you take insulin...so this is just something you do to help you function well."  I wish more people realized this, and stopped thinking that mental illness is such a stigma...something not to be discussed. So I think a good start would be education and changes in the curriculum.  When I was in school, the issue that prompted change in the curriculum was sexism and expectations for boys and girls. All the girls took home economics and the boys took shop, that was just what we were "supposed" to do. Well, I was one of the first girls who took shop class and I actually learned many life skills.  By the time my sons were in school, no matter what sex you were...home economics and shop classes were available to everyone. It benefitted everyone. Wouldn't  mandatory classes to gain an understanding of how to maintain good mental health and how to ask for help if you need it be incredibly helpful? There is progress being made: a recent article published on the NEA (National Education Association) site reported on recent legislation:

In the wake of the pandemic and the mass shootings, Senators Murphy and Cassidy, who are members of the U.S. Senate Health, Education, Labor, and Pensions Committee, said there is growing support for their legislation to reauthorize the federal mental health and substance use disorder programs signed into law in 2016 as part of their Mental Health Reform Act. It is set to expire in September of this year. The new legislation, the Mental Health Reform Reauthorization Act of 2022 (S.4170) addresses COVID-19’s devastating impact on the national mental health crisis, especially among children, by building upon the 2016 legislation to improve and expand those programs. 

“The bill provides resources to increase pipelines for mental health professionals by expanding training for those who might not traditionally be providers, like pediatricians,” said Cassidy. He said it also calls for increased resources for school-based clinics to provide counseling and mental health services, expanding access through increased distribution of telehealth appointments, and that it will build more coordinated care programs so that students receive what are called “wrap around services” that include home, school, healthcare and community touchpoints.

Kudos to the people that are trying hard to find workable solutions. I know these are questions that have been asked before, but until some workable solutions can be found...we have to keep searching. And we must continue to support the working professionals...from police officers, EMTs, teachers, clergy, medical personnel and many others who are just trying to get the job done. We must continue to Search and Pray for remedies.  Here's hoping and praying for better health for all of us in Mind, Body and Soul

For the Love of Lighthouses

It is no small wonder that I chose a lighthouse logo for the inside cover of my recent book. It's kind of my "thing"...I am fascinated by the beauty and history of lighthouses. Not only are they interesting structures, the fact that they both literally and figuratively illuminate our world is an inspiration to me.  I originally published a blog on this topic several years ago, but sometimes you have a topic that is worth revisiting.  With the summer travel season upon us, the possibility of lighthouse viewing increases! And yes....I still have a love of lighthouses and seek them out in my travels. 

Another reason that I chose to revisit one of my favorite topics is a gift I received recently from a dear friend of mine. (Thank you so much Joan...you know I love it.)  It is a framed stitchery of a relatively famous East coast lighthouse: The Thomas Point Shoal Lighthouse, located in Chesapeake Bay.  It is the most recognized lighthouse in Maryland.  Looking at the beautiful stitchery I realized that I "should" know this one, but I had to do my research on it until I identified it. 

Thomas Point Shoal Light-Built 1825, Chesapeake Bay

 Its unique structure makes it stand out as not the standard style of lighthouse. It was originally built in 1825 and was modified several times and is the only screw-pile (construction style) lighthouse in the bay which stands at its original site.  A photograph of the stitchery, does not do it justice to admire the colors and textures, but the above photo shows the unique lighthouse that the stitchery was based on. 

Fellow admirers of Lighthouses will agree with me that these majestic structures provide an inspiration and tales of their colorful histories abound. Not only are they interesting to visit, they provide an ideal subject for photography. They always "stay put" and don't move while you frame out that perfect shot.  Also, it never ceases to amaze me that no two lighthouses are alike and they are as varied as the shorelines they beautify.

 I believe Lighthouses have evolved from their historical roots as a guide to ships in turbulent waters and rugged, dangerous coastlines to landmarks of great historical significance and beauty. Not only do they serve to guide ships, but they have an air of spirituality about them to guide troubled souls in a world of darkness.  Their beacons shine in such a way that they provide an inspiration to all who view them.  How can one look upon a majestic lighthouse perched on a cliff or at the far end of a pier and not help but smile at its beauty.

Living in the Midwest, I feel honored that we have the greatest concentration of lighthouses anywhere in the world.  By virtue of the five Great Lakes, that provide hundreds of miles of coastline, lighthouses  were needed to provide safe navigation.  In recent years, many of the lighthouses have not continued to operate and function as navigating tools, with the advent of more technologically advanced methods replacing them.  Yet, since many are steeped in history and tradition, there are efforts to restore and maintain them. For more information, an interesting site on preservation is: www.lighthousepreservation.org

It is interesting when visiting a community that is fortunate enough to have a lighthouse; the local residents utilize it as a focal point and a tool for orienting. “Oh, that cottage is located just south-east of the lighthouse”, one might say; makes things easier to pinpoint.  Also, many times a specific lighthouse is symbolic to the area in which it is found and has unique characteristics to only that lighthouse.  That is the exciting thing about lighthouses: each one is different and each one has their own special features and attributes. Not all are the tall beacons rising high on a rocky cliff.  Many are actually relatively small structures, but are situated on a jutting landscape so as to shine their light on the water.  It never ceases to amaze me the different sizes, shapes and features inherent with all the different lighthouses.

When viewing, and visiting a lighthouse I try to appreciate the craftsmanship of the actual building and of course the view from the top, if one is able to gain access to the tower. In addition to the physical beauty you are surrounded by, it is wondrous to imagine the history, local lore and stories therein.

As a lover of the National Parks, I have collected "stamped entries" in my Passport for the National Parks. But did you know there is also a Passport for collecting "Stamps" of US Lighthouses? I also add little photographs to mine. The Passport is available from the United States Lighthouse Society.  I was surprised, and delighted, that the US Lighthouse Society is based out of the same small Washington town that I have visited several times; my sister-in-law lives there: Hansville. Several walks along the beach included trips to this charming lighthouse. The Point No Point Lighthouse was built in 1879 and is the oldest lighthouse in Puget Sound. If you are interested in more information on lighthouses and/or to get your own Passport, their web site is: uslhs.org

Point No Point Lighthouse-Hansville, Washington

When close to a lighthouse I can’t help but feel a sense of serenity and guidance, a connection between the creations of man and the turbulence of waters of Mother Nature; both the sea and the massive stretches of fresh water lakes. Here is one of my favorite iconic lighthouses in the Midwest: Split Rock Lighthouse on Lake Superior (Minnesota). It was built in 1910 and sits atop 127 foot cliff.  Now that is quite a cliff! I have visited there several times.  Tours are available and it is operated by the Minnesota Historical Society.  And I will say the gift shop is pretty awesome too for all the Lighthouse items you can imagine! Truly awesome to learn how the structure was built and to hear the stories of how it has helped mariners on the turbulent waters of Lake Superior.

Split Rock Lighthouse-Minnesota

 

St. Joseph Lighthouse ~ Michigan

Shown here is the St. Joseph Lighthouse on Lake Michigan. (St. Joseph, Michigan) Since it is situated across from Chicago on Lake Michigan, lighthouses were built at the St. Joseph location dating back to 1832, but the current structures were built in 1907. This is a lighthouse with such character and seems rather diminutive with it's small "partner" building. The lighthouse itself is not that tall, but sits atop the pier as it juts out  approximately 1,000 feet out onto the turbulent waters of Lake Michigan.  I have walked all the way to the end of the pier to take in the view from the lighthouse.  Catwalks above the pier were built so that the lighthouse keepers could access the lights when the seas were rough and waved crashed over the pier. Walking on the pier on a sunny, summer day, I envisioned what it would have been like on the catwalks with snow and ice below you.

St. Joseph Lighthouse in winter, Michigan

This particular lighthouse is frequently photographed when artfully depicted covered with snow and ice; as shown in the photo here.

So the next time you have an opportunity to visit a lighthouse, take the time to enjoy it’s unique design and think of its rich history. Ask a local about the history and the folktales of the lighthouse...I'll bet there is a story to hear.

Read Local! Hurray for the Indie Authors!

Supporting Local businesses has always been a terrific way to support the community you live in. 

Now you can expand on that concept and help support the local authors in your area.  The library in my community is doing just that and hosting an "Indie Author Showcase" and providing a fair to allow local authors to showcase their talents and sell their works directly to the public. 

The event will take place on Thursday, May 5 from 3pm-5pm as noted in this flyer. It will be held outdoors right next to the New Richmond Library on E. 1st Street. Looks like we will have good weather for the event. (knock on wood)

I recently got my new revised edition of my book about the National Park Service.  I was happy that I received it in time for the May 5th showcase.  I am very pleased with how it turned out and I hope potential readers of the book will be interested as well. Wish me luck! 

This is the first book I have published with IngramSpark.   Previously I published three other books utilizing Create Space self publishing (via Amazon).  I switched to this publisher after speaking with several independent bookstore owners and found out that several have a shared disdain for Kindle/CreateSpace publishing (more immediately recognized as "publishing via Amazon". )  Now in defense of my previous book publishing, I was not aware of the fact that Amazon was the Devil.  (see my previous blog: Sympathy for the Devil, from last September found at:  https://julieetta1982.blogspot.com/2021/09/sympathy-for-devil.html   It is truly amazing how much can happen in a matter of 6 or 7 months.  I am pleased with the way my new book looks, but learning how to market the book and getting it into the hands of interested readers brings new challenges.

I emphasize with the independent bookstores.... I truly do and I can understand their attitudes toward the Amazon business model. Nevertheless the plight of authors needs to be considered as well. I sincerely hope I have made a wise decision to switch to a publisher that works more in conjunction with independent booksellers.  Yet it remains to be seen if  my new choice of publisher supports independent authors.  Time will tell and I am trying hard to be optimistic. 

 My attitudes about writing and also publishing really can ebb and flow.  One minute I am optimistic about sharing my work with others, then there are days when I want to just give up. If this were a regular job....I probably would have quit or been fired several times over. Oh, well...the nature of the beast. Nobody ever said that writing was easy.  Even Hemmingway had an interesting take on that:

So I keep writing and realizing that I write because I want to, not because I have to. JES

Return to Alaska 2-Seward

 

Definitely Not a folly, Mr. Seward

Seward, Alaska is a charming city that has so many great things to offer that are quintessentially Alaskan. The city of Seward was named for President Lincoln's Secretary of State, William Henry Seward, the man who negotiated the purchase of the state of Alaska from Russia in 1867.  Seward signed a treaty with Russia for the purchase of  Alaska for $7 million. Despite the bargain price of roughly two cents an acre, the Alaskan purchase was ridiculed in Congress and by many of the American public as "Seward’s folly,” or “Seward’s icebox,”.  After the Civil War, Seward saw the potential in the land and was an advocate of  territorial expansion. He was eager to acquire the tremendous landmass of Alaska, an area roughly one-fifth the size of the rest of the United States. The city of Seward's official motto is: "Alaska starts Here" and certainly showcases so many of the things that Alaska has to offer.  So you may have been ridiculed at the time Mr. Seward, but you knew a good thing when you saw it.....and what a beautiful land it is!

Relatively easy to get to,  Seward is only a 2 1/2 hour drive from Anchorage on the scenic Seward Highway. The city is nestled between the mountains and the sea and has the beautiful Resurrection Bay as it's playground. Surrounded by glaciers and landscapes that support an abundance of wildlife and fauna, the Resurrection Bay was formed by millions of years of glacial activity and is now a deep fjord 35 miles long on the southeastern coast of the Kenai Peninsula.

 Kenai Fjords National Park~~ Photo from Major Marine Tours

Also found stemming from Seward is The Kenai Fjords National Park. This park was originally established as a National Monument in 1978, and became a National Park under the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act of 1980. Most access to the park is via tour boats out of Seward. Several wildlife and glacial cruises are available. Out on the water traveling along the coastline, it is a great way to see glaciers, marine mammals and seabirds. A view of the Harding Icefield, which covers over half of the acreage in the Park, is an amazing relic from the last ice age and truly takes one's breath away. The huge fields of ice advancing between the mountain caverns and a calving glacier are amazing and can sometimes make a person feel relatively small, in the scheme of things. Nearly 40 glaciers flow from the Harding Icefield. The boat tours are worth taking the time when visiting Seward.  Exit Glacier is the only portion of the park that may be accessed by road. There are two Visitor Center's available: one at Exit Glacier and one on Resurrection Bay in Seward. The park itself is open year round, but it's important to note that both Visitor's Centers, and many boat tours, have only summer operations: from May to early September.

It's a fisherman's paradise here and many charters are available. A good start would be a visit to The Fish House at 1303 4th Ave. They have lots of information on charters, equipment and anything and everything you need for fishing. Not only is it for fishing, it's a pretty cool hardware store, too with a few little souvenir items. For more information check out their web site at: https://www.thefishhouse.net/  Sport Fishing in the area includes Halibut, Salmon and Rockfish.  Seward is known as one of the top five ports in Alaska for commercial fisheries.

The Alaska SeaLife Center in Seward is celebrating their 20th year of operation. It opened in 1998 as an educational aquarium and rehabilitative center for marine animals. It is a wonderful place to get up close and personal with marine life creatures that you normally would not have access to. They have a wonderful aviary with an array of seabirds to view. In the lower level viewing area there is an amazing tank that you can view sea lions swimming and diving right in front of you! In addition to the various fish displayed there is an octopus, who always seems to be a big hit with the spectators. Also at the Center is a "touch tank" where you can gently touch and feel what sea cucumbers and starfish actually feel like. An amazing experience, but that arctic water is REALLY cold; touch tank experiences are usually brief! Of course there is a gift shop for obtaining a souvenir of your visit. It is good to know that your purchase goes to help support the Center as both a public aquarium and the stewardship of Alaska's marine ecosystems.

I think I would be remiss, if I did not include in this discussion about the Alaska Sea Life Center, the devastating event in history that in some ways spawned the creation of this wonderful center: the Exxon Valdez oil spill of 1989.  On March 24, 1989 the Exxon Valdez supertanker spilled 10.8 million gallons of crude oil into Prince William Sound. I remember that devastating event and even today some consider it the worst man-made environmental disaster. After this disaster, years of litigation and civil settlements helped to create new wildlife rehabilitation programs in addition, of course, better regulations regarding the transportation of crude oil.  The Alaska Sea Life center was also created by collaborative efforts of local marine scientists and also Alaska legislature appropriations.  For more information on this must see destination in Seward, see their site at: http://www.alaskasealife.org

"Fog Woman" by Jennifer Headtke
 (part of the Raven trilogy)

 Walking around the streets of Seward you see wonderful examples of the rich heritage and artistic influence as depicted in all the murals around town.  In 2008, Seward was voted the "Mural Capitol of Alaska"  and an organization has been established to promote and maintain the artwork. The murals cover a diversity of topics including the history of Seward, commercial fishing in the area, the Iditarod trail, the natural world and the heritage of the Native Alaskans.  So when taking a walking tour of Seward, have your camera ready and your eyes open...you will see murals just about every 2 blocks.  There are several murals that I missed, guess I better go back! Also, there are at least 6 art galleries/gift shops that display wonderful artwork by Native Alaskans and art that is reflecting the Alaskan spirit.

So head down the Seward Highway and get ready to experience this quintessential Alaskan port city. JES

Return to Alaska

 I am returning soon to Alaska...both literally and figuratively speaking.

Literally, because I just booked our tickets to Anchorage with my fingers crossed that it won't get postponed (again) because of COVID. Really looking forward to a visit with family there and also family in Seattle. It will be wonderful to see these folks and also to enjoy the beauty of the Great North. Since we have family there, we have been several times, but I am always excited about the prospect of exploring something new. This trip we hope to see some new sights in Anchorage and an extra trip to Seward. 

Figurately speaking, I am returning to the topic of Alaska with respect to my blog and my book.  So many changes took place in the last year in my little corner of the blogging world. I eliminated my "travel" blog for many reasons that I won't extrapolate on here...so I am now down to just one blog: Outlooks and Inspirations. It occurred to me that many of my interesting travel features were not shared on this particular blog; so I thought I would like to share some of my favorites here. Also, my National Park book is in the process of revision and publication with a new publisher.  Frankly I am very excited about that, more on that later. 

The following article about Alaska is one of my favorites about this beautiful state.  It is from my book about the National Park Service and is focused on the National Parks: "The Alaska Parks".  I purposely omitted several photographs...you will just need to purchase my book for the additional photos! (...shameless plug...I am my only marketing manager, remember?)

I have another blog post about the city of Seward, which we plan on returning to also.  I will publish that as a separate post.

The Alaska Parks

Alaska beckons. The mountains are calling. The pines whisper and the frozen tundra holds curiosities beneath.  The unique lands showcased in the parks there demonstrate its reputation as The Last Frontier.  Alaska is a youthful state, gaining statehood in 1959, but the marvels of this land are timeless.  There are 8 National Parks and 16 National wildlife refuges in the state of Alaska making it the leading state in the volume of protected lands.

Horseshoe Lake at Denali National Park

Like much of the state, Alaska’s parks and lands live up to their reputation as being the “Last Frontier”.  The breathtaking beauty of the forested lands, the snowcapped peaks and the diversity of wildlife is showcased in the parks. Yet, because of the ruggedness of the land, some of the places are very hard to get to and are not frequently visited. That could be good or bad depending on your perspective.  Out of the eight National Parks in Alaska, I have visited three of them; as it turns out the three that are the most accessible.

Probably the easiest to access and one of Alaska’s most popular attractions is Denali National Park.

Denali is  Alaska’s most well-known national park and is actually more readily accessible than some of the other remote parks.  Denali averages over  400,000 visitors annually. The flag ship feature of the park is the 20,320 feet high mountain peak known for thousands of years by the Athabascans as Denali, or “The High One”.

So What’s in a Name?  The park we know today as Denali National Park was founded in 1917 by Woodrow Wilson as Mount McKinley National Park. The name of the Park has been a controversy since its inception.  There are certain ironies that one can’t help but ponder on. First, the name McKinley was taken from our 25th President William McKinley. McKinley himself had never traveled to Alaska.  Perhaps he would have gone to see the majestic mountain and park, but sadly he was assassinated in September of 1901. Charles Sheldon, a naturalist and conservationist, advocated from the start the name of Denali for both the park and the mountain. The locals called it Denali, and the debate continued for decades. Finally in 1980, many continued to favor the name Denali after the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act changed the park’s name to Denali National Park and Preserve. But the official name of the mountain remained Mount McKinley.  Then just prior to the National Park Service centennial year in 2016, the mountain was reverted to the name Denali. While visiting Alaska in September of 2015, President Barack Obama announced the official name change of the mountain.

Keeping the “wild” in Alaskan wilderness.  The vastness and diverse ecosystems of the park are beautifully preserved and presented to visitors by virtue of how the park is operated and maintained.  Unlike other National Parks, access into the park is restricted and controlled by only one road, 90 miles long into the park.  Personal vehicles are not allowed beyond the 15 mile mark on the park road; only the shuttle buses taking visitors back and forth from several destinations. This may seem odd at first, but when you take a bus trip into the park it helps you to understand  how this system helps to minimize car travel and reduce the carbon footprint on this wilderness. Riders are free to get on and off the bus as they please.  Another distinct advantage is that you are much more likely to view an abundance of wildlife.  The animals have become accustomed to the big tan buses along the road and are more likely to view them as just a part of the landscape. When we went, we observed, from the safety of the bus, a mama Grizzly helping her two cubs to hunt a ground squirrel. That was an experience I will never forget.

In addition to the park road, the trails allow foot traffic within the park for both the casual hiker and the seasoned veteran. Some of the more seasoned hikers are encouraged to “make their own trail”, but for the casual hikers there are several trails starting closer to the Visitors Center.  An easy hike, 1.5 miles, to the beautiful plateau above Horseshoe Lake provides ample opportunities for stunning photographs. 

Wildlife thrives in the vastness of the park and the “Big Five” have been designated as:  grizzly bears, wolves, moose, caribou and Dall sheep.  It may be a personal goal to view all five, but don’t be too disappointed if you don’t view them all. You can always pick up a coffee mug or t-shirt with all of them on it; sounds a bit touristy but a great way to remember your visit.

My family and I saw a grizzly and her cubs from quite a distance and also a mother moose and her cubs, but sometimes it’s very cool to also capture them on a souvenir. Not quite the same as seeing them in real life, but it’s so neat to bring back the memories of your trip and be able to say you’ve been to Denali. Wolves and grizzlies are not as easily seen, but the abundance of Moose in the park makes it almost a sure bet you will see them at some point. Depending on the year, the moose population within the park fluctuates of course, but the National Park Service estimates about 1,800 Moose at Denali.  That’s alot of Moose!  Just FYI, the plural of Moose is Moose…good to know.

 “Mush, Doggies! Mush!” You can’t get up close and personal with a grizzly, but at Denali you can get close and cuddly with the sled dogs.  In the winter months, the best way to get around from here to there within the park is still by sled dog team.  One of the must see attractions at Denali is the sled dog demos and a visit to the kennels.   Even if you are visiting in the summer, they have to keep the dog’s training going year round, so they add small wheels to the sleds to run them on all terrains.  During the summer tourist season, they have 3 daily dog sled demonstrations.  The Park Service runs several shuttles to the kennels.  When I was there I was amazed to find out the importance of the use of dog sleds within the park and also within the state of Alaska.  The most famous, well -known sled dog race, the Iditarod, has a colorful and intriguing history.  Portions of the Iditarod trail were used as early as the 1880’s, However the most famous event in the history of Alaskan mushing  is the 1925 serum run to Nome; also known as the “Great Race of Mercy.” A large diphtheria epidemic threatened Nome. The only way to get the antitoxin to Nome was by sled dog, due to unusable planes and ships in the worst of winter.  So on January 27, the port at Seward had received the serum where it was passed to the first of twenty mushers and more than 100 dogs who relayed the package 674 miles from Nenana to Nome. The dogs ran in relays, with no dog running over 100 miles. Wow, I hear that story and am amazed of the courage and tenacity of those mushers and their dogs. No wonder it has become an inspiring tale; both for those that participate in the Iditarod and those that watch on the sidelines.  All an amazing part of the Alaska experience.

Another very accessible Alaska  park , via Seward, is Kenai Fjords National Park . It covers about 950 square miles and showcases some of the iconic features of Alaska including glaciers, marine life and coastal scenery. 

A large majority of the Park is either in the waterways or frozen icefields, so one of the best ways to get an overview of the park is via a tour boat from Seward into Resurrection Bay and parts of the Gulf of Alaska.  There are several tours available from the starting point of Seward for both wildlife viewing and fishing excursions. We went on an afternoon cruise with Major Marine Tours.  Getting out on the water gives you a great overview of one of the crowning features of the Park: the Harding Icefield.  It is 70 miles long and 30 miles wide and creates all the glaciers in Kenai Fjords National Park.  It is incredible to see-and hear- the glaciers “calve” icebergs into the bay by releasing massive chunks of ice into the water.

Additionally, on the boat tour, we were able to see numerous examples of Alaska marine life.  We saw Stellar Sea Lions, Bald Eagles and an abundance of Puffins and Kittiwakes.  Puffins were always my favorite. They look so cute and pudgy and seemingly awkward, but they are fast flyers and divers with excellent fishing skills.

 Another aspect of our tour at Kenaj Fjords was my first introduction to the concept of the “Land of the Midnight Sun”.   Since we were there in August, the long days and short, short nights were very evident. At the end of the tour we came back to the harbor, pulling up to the dock and the sun was still  high on the horizon.  It felt like about 6 or 7 pm, but it was 10 pm. So odd. Now I know why residents of Alaska purchase “black out” curtains to get a good night sleep.  Yet, as a tourist it’s great because you  can fill so many things in one day and you don’t run out of daylight.

The only road in the Park, ends at the Exit Glacier parking lot. From there you can take an easy hike to view the glacier face. It is one of the most accessible glaciers in Alaska and terrific to view, but sadly is also a very visible indicator of glacial recession due to climate change.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. 

Another impressive Park that holds such beauty but is somewhat more challenging to journey to is Wrangell- St. Elias  National Park and Preserve. It is  on the eastern side of the state about 250 miles from Anchorage.

Wrangell- St. Elias is a vast national park that holds the title of the largest of our national parks at 13.2 million acres.  To provide some perspective, the park is the same size as Yellowstone National Park, Yosemite National Park, and Switzerland combined! The combined mountain ranges in the park: Wrangell and St. Elias contain 9 of the 16 highest mountain peaks in the U.S.

Also within the Park reside the remnants of the historic Kennecott Mine and a very interesting visitor’s center explaining what life was like in the glory days of copper mining.  It’s a fascinating place to visit because it is a demonstration of the tenacity and ingenuity of the human spirit. When traveling the McCarthy Road to get to the mine, you feel as if you are already on an adventure, and you sometimes have to reach into your own resolve when seeking this destination.

The McCarthy Road is 60 miles long and is a long gravel road. Here is a photo showing where the nice smooth pavement ends and the gravel road & imposing cliffs begin. It is intimidating when all the travel literature warns NOT to take rental cars on this road and other warnings for the faint of heart. It was a rough ride with several portions of the road demonstrating the “wash-board” effect, a series of tight ridges.  I give my sister-in-law, Christy, so much credit: she drove both in and out on this challenging stretch of road.  We took her mini-van, which worked well and we took it slowly.  That is the key to surviving on this road without a flat tire or worse damage to your vehicle.  It is only 60 miles, but plan for about 3 hours. It is well worth the trip if you take your time. You can see so much more when you are traveling at 30 mph as opposed to 65.

Be sure to catch all the scenery and wildlife along the way and the views are spectacular. This is the Kuskalana Bridge, built in 1910, it spans 525 feet and sits at a height 238 feet above the river. An incredible building accomplishment and yes we drove across it. Having a little bit of a fear of heights (don’t we all to some extent) I had to hold my breath and somehow muster up the courage to take in the view.  Be courageous and take in the view, it’s worth it. 

So travelling along the rustic McCarthy Road, you eventually meet your destination: the McCarthy/Kennecott settlement and the Kennecott Mine.  Nestled in the snow capped mountains of the Wrangell-St. Elias range, the Copper Mine was closed in 1938. It stands silent watch above the valley and the steep drop offs that are common to the area.

When visiting the abandoned mine, the sheer majesty of its size gives you a whole new appreciation for the people who lived and worked here. The structure of the main mill has such an ominous presence that even if it is not haunted it still has an alarming presence that truly is awe-inspiring. The building of the mine itself, and the surrounding buildings supporting the workers, initially seemed to be insurmountable tasks. To bring buildings materials in through the rugged mountain passes, the first priority was to build a railroad. In addition to helping construct the new city and mine, the copper ore was transported via railroad south to Cordova. When visiting Kennecott, I walked along the original rails that line up with the chutes, where the rock crusher spit out processed rock and ore that was further refined.

Remnants of the tools that were used in the labor intensive process of mining are found strewn about the area. Here my son Dan surveys the rugged Wrangell Mountains while standing by an ancient rock crusher, circa early 1930’s. Also remnants of the life that was left behind after the mine closed are still visible and one gets a strange sensation that memories and spirits of the past still are present here.  It seems to have had more recent activity in the mine than the footsteps of tourists and it is hard to believe it closed more than 75 years ago.  Nevertheless, as one of those tourists, I found it a fascinating historical place to visit and taking in the natural beauty of the park was an inherent bonus.

The National Park Service acquired the mine in 1998 and the lands of the historic mining town of Kennecott.  The mine has been designated a National Historic Landmark.  On the Wrangell-St. Elias website: www.nps.gov/wrst life working in the mine is described: “Kennecott was a place of long hours and hard, dangerous work.  At the height of operation about six hundred men worked in the mines and mill town. Paying salaries higher than those found in the lower-48, Kennecott was able to attract men willing to live and work in this remote Alaskan mining camp…..Despite the dangers and grueling work, the Kennecott workers mined and concentrated at least $200 million worth of ore.”
The mine successfully ran for over 30 years, but was closed due to declining copper deposits and the high cost of railway maintenance.

 It would be quite a challenge to see all eight of Alaska’s parks, yet even taking the opportunity to visit a few definitely gives you an appreciation for this most beautiful land. Alaska is full of breathtaking vistas, welcoming people and places that create memorable trips of a lifetime.