Under the Duct Tape Moose

 So I have embarked on another travel book that I hope will bring many new sights to discover on your next road trip. It's also an anthology of unique and funny road trip experiences.  Do you have a unique road trip experience that you would like to share?....I would love to include it in the collection of stories! Let me know at: Julieetta05@gmail.com  Here is the forward for my book and also explains what the heck is a Duct Tape Moose?!

Under the Duct Tape Moose--

American Road Trip Curiosities

Forward

Everyone has a story to tell about memorable travel experiences that bear repeating.  Many times the most memorable stories are the ones that occur on the road to our chosen destination.   This book is an anthology of  favorite stories along the Road Less Traveled.

Our first family trip to Alaska was when my sons were young teen boys, anxious to explore the Great White North.  My sister-in- law and brother- in- law lived in Anchorage and were happy to help guide our explorations on the “must see” portions of our trip.

The road trip north from Anchorage to visit Denali National Park, took us through Wasilla. We stopped at the local Walmart for snacks and a break.  Walking through the front door, in the front lobby stood a life size replica of a bull moose entirely constructed from duct tape.  We found out that, in 2003, Wasilla had been awarded the honor of : "Duck Tape Capital of the WORLD!"   This particular Walmart had sold more duct tape in the world  than any other location.  The Wasilla Walmart sold the equivalent of 325 miles of duct tape in one year! Since it was Alaska, how fitting they sculpted a Duct Tape Moose to commemorate the occasion.

 After several trips to Alaska, my son Dan, fell in love with Alaska and also fell in love with a woman who grew up in Wasilla.  They are now both living in Anchorage. While at a family gathering years later, discussing how they met, and the Wasilla Duct tape Moose came up.  Of course this was long before they met, but we laughed and wondered at the possibility that maybe they met “Under the Duct Tape Moose” and saw each other years before “officially” meeting one another.  Unbeknownst what the future would bring. Oh alas, the romance of meeting Under the Duct Tape Moose.

Hence the title of my book was born. On our travels it’s truly amazing that it’s the unique little things that make a memorable impact, not necessarily just the main attractions. The curiosities along the way provide opportunities to make every trip more memorable.   One is bound to see a moose when visiting Alaska, but how many have seen one made of Duct Tape?  It’s little distinctions like that, that make every journey distinctly one’s own. 

Happy Travels.      JES

Taliesin-Celebrating the beauty of the Wisconsin Landscape

Balcony in the main residence at Taliesin

The rolling hills in the driftless region of southwestern Wisconsin are the home of Taliesin, an estate with several buildings on it created through the eyes of America's most celebrated and imitated architect.  He had a knack for creating in such a way as to bring the building and it's surroundings together.  Celebrating nature and also melding form and function.  Wood, Glass & Stone; some of the most important elements in his creations. He was raised in Spring Green, Wisconsin and even if you are not familiar with Taliesin, you can probably guess that I am talking about Frank Lloyd Wright.

Frank Lloyd Wright, circa 1926

A recent trip to Spring Green and Taliesin inspired me to pen this blog. I know sometimes dates are just numbers, but I found it interesting and ironic that Frank Lloyd Wright died in 1959...and I was born in 1959.  It makes me feel younger and/or older... I'm not sure which.  In any case for me that was a unique bit of trivia. 

Taliesin has a unique pronunciation: TAL-ee-ESS-in.  Once you have heard it correctly pronounced a few times it is easy, but it did take me a few times.  Wright decided on the name of his 800-acre estate to honor his Welsh heritage. Taliesin means "shining brow " in Welsh. His home was built on the "brow" of the hill to have a vantage point for viewing the rolling hills of the landscape. In true form of many of his architectural visions, he wanted the building to be treated as a n element of nature. He knew that if you build a structure on top of a hill, then you lose the hill.  As Wright himself explained: "It should be of the hill, belonging to it, so hill and house could live together each the happier for the other."

I am not a student of architecture, but nevertheless it is fascinating to tour this place and learn about some of the unconventional types of building styles that Wright introduced. For example, the concept of "open air" design and having rooms flow one into the other, i.e. living room into dining room, with no separation, was an idea that Wright really encouraged in his designs.  The Victorian style of design required separate rooms and many walls to divide them.  Wright insisted on a more open design. He also developed a concept  he called Compression and Release, creating a low, intimate space that suddenly opens up into something expansive and full of light.  When you step from a smaller space to a larger room full of light and height, the room seems more alive.   It makes the presentation of a high vaulted ceiling that much more grand. An interesting concept, but when touring Taliesin, my husband, who is 6'2" had to really watch his head in the contracting and expanding process. Wright was 5'7". 

Wright's private residence was at Taliesin, but several buildings on the estate were also dedicated to a boarding school: Hillside School. He had it built for his aunts, who were teachers with a desire to run one of the first co-educational boarding schools in the country. The school operated only from 1901 to 1915. The building remained idle until 1932, when it was remodeled and used to house the newly founded Taliesin Fellowship, a school for apprentice architects.   The foundation and general philosophy of the school was a hands on approach.  Several of the early students started by remodeling the Hillside School and adding a 5,000 square foot drafting studio.

Salvaged pieces: Blossoms of the Soul
 

Many of his design styles were also heavily influenced by his love for Japanese culture.  He made several trips to Japan, and spent a fortune as a collector of paintings and sculptures for his home in Spring Green. Some of his architectural styles were also influenced by his concept of a building's "spirit", which he felt was more important than it's geometry or physical form.  Following devastating fires at Taliesin, Wright was able to salvage several pieces of artwork and sculptures.  Frequently he incorporated them into the rebuilding of the structure with the believe that the spirit lives on and is incorporated into the new building. 

Wright and his apprentices called these features "Blossom of the Soul."  

Here is a photo of a salvaged sculpture that was literally embedded into the masonry at Taliesin. The sculptures were not meant to be just a historical footnote, but rather to become a new part of the buildings character.

Prior to visiting Taliesin, I just viewed Frank Lloyd Wright the way most of the general public does: he was a man of great talent who achieved and pioneered many techniques/styles in architecture.  Yet, like many accomplished geniuses he had an interesting and an often troubled life.  There was so much drama and tragic events in his life that sometimes it was amazing he had the strength and tenacity to deal with it all. Yet, the love of his work and passion for his art made him persevere. 

Both the joys in his life and tragic events are beautifully crafted in this book: The Women by T.C. Boyle. The book is not a true biography of Wright, but rather historical fiction.  The events that  took place really happened but the conversations and inner most thoughts of Wright were embellished to tell the story. He had three wives and a mistress.  (maybe more than one mistress, depending on how you define mistress) His first wife gave him six children and there were also several illegitimate children. Fires  struck twice at Taliesin, and Wright rebuilt each time. One of the fires was arson, started by an employee on the property.  After starting the fire, he killed people with an ax if they were seeking to escape. Gruesome story. Seven people were killed in that fire, including  Wright's true love and mistress: Mamah Borthwick Cheney. He had originally built Taliesin as a place they could be together: shielded from aggressive reporters and the public sentiment regarding their non-married status.

The book is fascinating with insights about the personal life of these famous architect, yet the narrative can be quite confusing because it is not in chronological order.  The events actually occurred, but bounces back in forth in time. For example, the two fires are Taliesin are discussed in the book, but the second fire was documented first.   Perhaps the author formatted it this way to force the reader to gain a better understanding of what happened when.  When I first started reading this, to keep everyone straight, I had to write down out the names of his wives, and when he was married to whom. Nevertheless, it provides some insights into the life of this architectural genius.

So, have I piqued your curiosity? After visiting Taliesin, it confirmed my thinking that when one travels  to visit a specific place it’s always good to do your “homework” before AND  after the trip.  You can learn so much more and it opens up new windows on the given topic. What is more exciting than to make new discoveries?

If you are interesting in visiting Taliesin and finding more about Frank Lloyd Wright--here is the link to the website: https://www.taliesinpreservation.org/tours/

                                                                                                    Julie Etta Smith

Keep Portland Weird...the Incredible Simpsons Connection

 My Family has loved the Simpsons cartoon for years.  Scott and I were married in 1988 and the Simpsons debuted in December of 1989.  We have a shared kinship with them and almost the same anniversary. When our boys were growing up we shared countless nights of laughter being entertained by the antics of this family.  Some episodes may have been considered "edgy" and controversial, but they always seemed to be spot on and dealt with all kinds of contemporary issues of the American family.  They may have exaggerated to make a point, but the writing on the show was done in such a way that people really could relate to many of the circumstances of this family. If you are a Simpsons connoisseur like my family, not only do you know the core family characters: Homer, Marge, Lisa, Bart and Maggie, you learn many of the other characters in the town (No state!!?) of Springfield. I was intrigued to find out that much of the inspiration for the show came from Portland, Oregon.

I just recently found out that the creator of the Simpsons Matt Groening, was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. At any other time I would probably not give it a second thought...but next month we are planning a trip to Portland. This just adds to the excitement and challenge of finding some of the connections that Matt Groening made to the city when crafting his show. If you didn't already know it...The Simpsons is the longest running American animated series. Bravo!  Good for them, it's a great show.  But in my humble opinion, the older episodes were better.  Maybe back then they were not afraid to poke fun at certain institutions to make a point.

In any case, I found out that there are so many fun connections to Portland.  For starters Matt Groening's parents are Homer and Marge. His sisters were named Lisa and Maggie and Bart-an anagram for Brat-is a stand in for Matt himself.  He grew up on a street named Evergreen Terrace  and many of the character names were taken from street names in Portland. Here are just a few: Burnside, Flanders, Lovejoy, and  Quimby. I was going to give the reader tips as to which name matched with which character, but if you are a Simpson fan....you know.  Montgomery Park was cited as the inspiration for Mr. Burn's nuclear plant.  Also, in 2021 a Ned Flanders footbridge was built named after the Simpson's endearing and sometimes annoying neighbor.

When our family watched the show, we could really relate to some of the situations.  My family has always teased me that I am frequently an optimist, sometimes overly so.  They draw a parallel to me of the episode of Marge at the racetrack:

"Can't I just bet that all the horses will have a fun time?". 

In our family, we frequently spout Simpsons dialogue when the situation requires it. When I hear "Can't I just bet that all the horses will have a fun time?" then sometimes I know that maybe I'm trying to hard to "make" everyone have a fun time. Yeah, kind of strange, and perhaps a little passive-aggressive, but sometimes it works for the Smith family.

Keep Portland Weird, photo by Jimmy Emerson on flickr

I just know we will have fun looking for Simpsons connections as well as the Keep Portland Weird murals.  I wondered why they had a doughnut named "Homer" at Voodoo Doughnuts...now I know why.  Classic Homer.  

1959...Part 2

 In my last blog I spoke of the incredible beauty of two states: Alaska and Hawaii and the unique fact that they gained statehood in the same year: 1959.  Perhaps I feel an interesting connection with them both because that is the same year I was born.  I have been to Alaska many times and have had some terrific adventures by virtue of the fact that we have family there so frequently head North to visit. 

Yet, in mid-February I was finally able to add Hawaii to my travelled to list. What an awesome place and since we travelled to four islands, I divided up my blogs into four separate blog posts. Since it involves travel features, I posted on my relatively new blog: https://www.americandestinations.net/  If you are interested in US travel, I hope you will take a look. Thanks, Julie

    The Luau: a classic experience for Hawaiian visitors

1959

What an awesome year it was....1959. Alaska and Hawaii both became states and "official" members of these United States and also.... I was born. Perhaps not exactly a banner event, but I love sharing my "birthday" with both Alaska and Hawaii. Since we did come to being in the same year I have always had a desire to visit those two exotic locals.  I know that both states had a long, diverse history prior to becoming part of the U.S., but nevertheless, 1959 is significant for all three of us.

I know many things were going on in '59 that are worthy of note.  Here's just a sampling: Fidel Castro's forces were victorious in the Cuban revolution. Xerox launched the first commercial copier. Work began on the formulation of a birth control pill (it didn't hit the market until 1960) The United States launched the Vanguard II weather satellite. Then sadly, also in 1959, the event that later was called the "Day the Music died": a chartered plane transporting musicians Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens and the Big Bopper crashed in foggy conditions near Clear Lake, Iowa killing all four occupants on board including the pilot: Roger Peterson.  Don Mclean's classic song "American Pie" (1971) included a memorial to these musicians paying tribute to them singing of "the day the music died". A sad event, but a classic song that most Baby Boomers know all the words to. 

While looking back to the year 1959, many journalists and reports claimed it was a turning point in this country on many levels: cultural, economic and also the roles of men and women.  Since I was born in 1959, I would never be destined to be constrained by the role of a 1950's housewife.  Any perceptions o that lifestyle would only be seen by me in black and white re-runs of "Leave it to Beaver".  I feel fortunate that many of the Feminist ideals of equality had already been forged ahead  long before the time I even thought about relationships, marriage and the battle of the sexes...both  in the workplace and the personal level.  Yes, 1959 was a banner year...but what really struck me that those two most amazing states gained statehood the same year I was born! Not exactly sure when it happened, but BOTH of those states were added to my list of places I really wanted to visit.

                                           Thompson Pass near Valdez, Alaska

So I have made great progress on my bucket list with Alaska.  My sister-in-law and brother- in- law live there and we have made several fun journeys there,  Then in 2014, my son moved there and has established himself there. Pretty sure he's going to stay. I tallied our trips to the state that has been pegged "The Last Frontier" and it currently stands at 6 trips. Sounds like six times would be enough, but there are so many varied things to see, that it is always a treat to see something new when we go up to see family. Plus, as long as I have family there...I will go. There are many places in Alaska I have yet to explore!

Next month I will be able to check off Hawaii, our 50th state, on my Bucket List. (Well, let's just say the Good Lord willing and the creek don't rise.)  I am so incredibly excited and everything is well planned. Yet, not too well planned...you have to have some room for spontaneity. I have always planned our own trips by myself, (and many internet searches and trips to the library), but I was really intimidated by this one. Especially coordinating flights between islands, so I enlisted the help of a travel agent and I am sure glad I did.  But time will tell how smoothly everything will go. Nothing will be absolutely the way you expect it.  I found found that in life that I need to be flexible with my expectations and reality.  Nevertheless, I am so very excited and am "pre-viewing" (via the Internet) some of the gorgeous sights that I hope to see myself.  Here are the stunning Wailua Falls in Kauai.

Gorgeous, Huh?! These serene falls were shown on the opening credits of the television show  Fantasy Island(the original from the early 80's, not the reboot.) Yes...I am old enough to remember the original with Mr. Rourke and Tattoo.  When we are there, we will have to watch for "Da' Plane....Da Plane!! "  What a heart warming show, even if is was a bit sappy. 

So I am sure that upon my return, I will have plenty to write about.

Until then...ALOHA.        Julie E. Smith

Midwest Travel Adventures: The SS Badger

 I have a wonderful longtime friend, Amy, who invited me to come for a visit to their family cottage in northern Michigan. From where I live in Wisconsin, it would be a loooong drive and of course that lovely loop around the bottom of Lake Michigan and Chicago traffic...ugh. However, Amy made the comment that there is a ferry that cuts across Lake Michigan, that might be an idea. Oh , my gosh and what a fun idea it was!  I got busy with the idea with several internet searches and then I got hooked on the idea. I formulated a game plan, and I booked my tickets!

I wasn't saving anything on travel time, but it sure made the travel more enjoyable and broke up the tedious time behind the wheel. If I had driven entirely by car, it would have been approximately 9 1/2 to a 10-hour drive. That time doesn't include meal stops, potty breaks and the evitable: "Oh, my Gosh I have to stop for a minute and get a picture of that...Wow!" People who travel with me know I am a real shutter bug; I can hardly wait to document the trip in photos. So, on the boat I could take as my photos as I wanted and did not have to worry about keeping my eyes on the road. The SS badger leaves from Manitowoc, Wisconsin and takes a scenic, leisurely ride across Lake Michigan and arrives in Ludington, Michigan about 4 hours later.

First and foremost, I love the name SS Badger! What a great tribute to the Wisconsin Badgers.  Upon my arrival in Manitowoc, I decided to go to the port and check out where I would be checking in for the ferry ride the next day. Originally, I was going to make the 4 1/2 jaunt across the state of Wisconsin and try to make it by 1 pm boarding time.  This was supposed to be a fun trip to eliminate stress, not create it. So with encouragement from friends, and my husband, I booked a hotel and would board the next day. Nevertheless, when checking out the waterfront I came across this fellow: a 14 ft. high Badger statue named: "Shipbuilder". The sculptor, Carl Vanderheyden, choose the name to pay homage to the long shipbuilding history in the city of Manitowoc. The fact that it is a Badger in the state of Wisconsin and right by the SS Badger dock...well that is an easy connection to make. It is an interesting statue, although a bit creepy if you look up into his eyes.   It's almost as if he is getting into attack mode.  Although makes for some great photo opps on the waterfront.

 

The SS Badger was originally built in 1952 for transporting railroad cars across Lake Michigan.  She is the largest Great Lakes car ferry ever constructed and is the only coal fired passenger steam ship currently operating in the United States.  After she began operating as a car ferry and cargo ship, car ferry traffic dramatically decreased, and profits declined. The Badger was sold to Michigan Wisconsin Transportation (MWT) company who in 1990 faced bankruptcy.  The ship's fate was rescued by entrepreneur/philanthropist Charles Conrad who purchased MWT and revised that mission for the Badger.  She was revamped to become a passenger focused ferry in 1992.   After transporting millions of passengers across the Lake, she was granted National Historic Landmark status in 2016.  Another tid-bit of information about the water route taken by the Badger, is that the route from Manitowoc to Ludington is officially designated as part of US Highway 10, so the ship completes a 565 stretch of highway spanning across fours states in the Midwest from Fargo, North Dakota to Bay City, Michigan. Not as impressive as Route 66, but nevertheless quite a long pathway.

 The system they have for loading the ship is truly amazing and streamlined. You check in, pull your vehicle up to a designated spot and leave your keys in the car.  This in itself felt weird, but they have a terrific system. Then they have a team of individuals on the "SS Badger Crew" that load all the vehicles on to the ship. That is quite an amazing feat, because this ship can hold up to 180 vehicles and also 600 passengers!  Frankly, the ship is so large and intimidating I was happy to have my vehicle loaded by experienced professionals. I have enough trouble lining my tires up properly in the carwash, much less going up the ramp and not into Lake Michigan! They looked to me like college students who had snagged a really good summer job. Young drivers, but when I was watching them...they did a great job and took great care with every vehicle. And with their bright orange vests it was easy to see that your car was not being taken by just "anybody."

Another bonus on this trip for me, in addition to seeing the beautiful scenery of Lake Michigan, I also got my "lighthouse fix" with great views of three lighthouse: one in Manitowoc, one in Ludington and one in Charlevoix. I enjoyed looking up the histories of these structures and once again marveling at the fact that there is a higher concentration of lighthouses surrounding the Great Lakes than any other place in the world. Which is not a surprise with over 10,000 miles of shoreline. As long as we are discussing lighthouses, it's also interesting that there are more lighthouses in the state of Michigan than any other state: 121 to be exact.

Manitowoc Breakwater Lighthouse
Manitowoc, WI.   

The first lighthouse I saw on this journey, was right in the harbor where the SS Badger resides on the Wisconsin side. Congress had appropriated $5,000 for the construction of a lighthouse at Manitowoc in 1837.  The original operated until 1877.  Construction of a large pier began when it was determined that a light on a breakwater was deemed more suitable. The Manitowoc lighthouse was re-built in 1918 and rises 50' high. It has an interesting design that wraps the lighthouse keeper's quarters around the tower. The previous structure had the tower and the lighthouse keeper residence separate.

Ludington North Breakwater Light
Ludington, MI.

After crossing the Lake on the Badger, drifting into the Ludington harbor I saw another iconic lighthouse: Ludington North Breakwater Light. When reading about the history of this Light, I found out why many structures are just called "lights" and not lighthouses.  Pretty logical explanation: no lighthouse keepers' quarters were attached. Simple enough, but I still have a tendency to call all such structures "lighthouses." At least now I know the distinction. 

The first Ludington light was constructed and lit in 1871. In 1924 the present tower was built with steel plates over a steel skeleton.  The unusual shape was designed to deflect the strong waves of Lake Michigan. With the SS Badger going in and out of the harbor, a summer tradition for folks is walking out on the pier to wave at the passengers passing on that gigantic boat passing by the breakwater. Conversely, as passengers we waved back to those on the breakwater by the lighthouse.  It just felt like mutual admiration and enjoyment of a tranquil, summer day.

The last lighthouse viewing, on this journey anyway, was not from the decks of the Badger, but worth an honorable mention: the Charlevoix South Pier Lighthouse.  My friend Amy and I travelled a little bit north to the city of Charlevoix. Charming little city with great shopping, cuisine and since the city is on Lake Michigan: a lighthouse! It is quite small, by lighthouse standards, but I think has a special charm.  It is owned by the city of Charlevoix, and it maintained and preserved by the Charlevoix Historical Society.  Originally it was built as a simple frame with a lantern on top.  In 1914 it was replaced with a sturdy steel structure and for years it was painted white.  In 1968, in addition to other refurbishing and restoration efforts, it was painted bright red as it remains today.

So many intriguing sights and adventures here in the Midwest!  I have always been a Midwestern gal; there is so much joy to be found right here in the Heartland.

For the Love of Lighthouses

It is no small wonder that I chose a lighthouse logo for the inside cover of my recent book. It's kind of my "thing"...I am fascinated by the beauty and history of lighthouses. Not only are they interesting structures, the fact that they both literally and figuratively illuminate our world is an inspiration to me.  I originally published a blog on this topic several years ago, but sometimes you have a topic that is worth revisiting.  With the summer travel season upon us, the possibility of lighthouse viewing increases! And yes....I still have a love of lighthouses and seek them out in my travels. 

Another reason that I chose to revisit one of my favorite topics is a gift I received recently from a dear friend of mine. (Thank you so much Joan...you know I love it.)  It is a framed stitchery of a relatively famous East coast lighthouse: The Thomas Point Shoal Lighthouse, located in Chesapeake Bay.  It is the most recognized lighthouse in Maryland.  Looking at the beautiful stitchery I realized that I "should" know this one, but I had to do my research on it until I identified it. 

Thomas Point Shoal Light-Built 1825, Chesapeake Bay

 Its unique structure makes it stand out as not the standard style of lighthouse. It was originally built in 1825 and was modified several times and is the only screw-pile (construction style) lighthouse in the bay which stands at its original site.  A photograph of the stitchery, does not do it justice to admire the colors and textures, but the above photo shows the unique lighthouse that the stitchery was based on. 

Fellow admirers of Lighthouses will agree with me that these majestic structures provide an inspiration and tales of their colorful histories abound. Not only are they interesting to visit, they provide an ideal subject for photography. They always "stay put" and don't move while you frame out that perfect shot.  Also, it never ceases to amaze me that no two lighthouses are alike and they are as varied as the shorelines they beautify.

 I believe Lighthouses have evolved from their historical roots as a guide to ships in turbulent waters and rugged, dangerous coastlines to landmarks of great historical significance and beauty. Not only do they serve to guide ships, but they have an air of spirituality about them to guide troubled souls in a world of darkness.  Their beacons shine in such a way that they provide an inspiration to all who view them.  How can one look upon a majestic lighthouse perched on a cliff or at the far end of a pier and not help but smile at its beauty.

Living in the Midwest, I feel honored that we have the greatest concentration of lighthouses anywhere in the world.  By virtue of the five Great Lakes, that provide hundreds of miles of coastline, lighthouses  were needed to provide safe navigation.  In recent years, many of the lighthouses have not continued to operate and function as navigating tools, with the advent of more technologically advanced methods replacing them.  Yet, since many are steeped in history and tradition, there are efforts to restore and maintain them. For more information, an interesting site on preservation is: www.lighthousepreservation.org

It is interesting when visiting a community that is fortunate enough to have a lighthouse; the local residents utilize it as a focal point and a tool for orienting. “Oh, that cottage is located just south-east of the lighthouse”, one might say; makes things easier to pinpoint.  Also, many times a specific lighthouse is symbolic to the area in which it is found and has unique characteristics to only that lighthouse.  That is the exciting thing about lighthouses: each one is different and each one has their own special features and attributes. Not all are the tall beacons rising high on a rocky cliff.  Many are actually relatively small structures, but are situated on a jutting landscape so as to shine their light on the water.  It never ceases to amaze me the different sizes, shapes and features inherent with all the different lighthouses.

When viewing, and visiting a lighthouse I try to appreciate the craftsmanship of the actual building and of course the view from the top, if one is able to gain access to the tower. In addition to the physical beauty you are surrounded by, it is wondrous to imagine the history, local lore and stories therein.

As a lover of the National Parks, I have collected "stamped entries" in my Passport for the National Parks. But did you know there is also a Passport for collecting "Stamps" of US Lighthouses? I also add little photographs to mine. The Passport is available from the United States Lighthouse Society.  I was surprised, and delighted, that the US Lighthouse Society is based out of the same small Washington town that I have visited several times; my sister-in-law lives there: Hansville. Several walks along the beach included trips to this charming lighthouse. The Point No Point Lighthouse was built in 1879 and is the oldest lighthouse in Puget Sound. If you are interested in more information on lighthouses and/or to get your own Passport, their web site is: uslhs.org

Point No Point Lighthouse-Hansville, Washington

When close to a lighthouse I can’t help but feel a sense of serenity and guidance, a connection between the creations of man and the turbulence of waters of Mother Nature; both the sea and the massive stretches of fresh water lakes. Here is one of my favorite iconic lighthouses in the Midwest: Split Rock Lighthouse on Lake Superior (Minnesota). It was built in 1910 and sits atop 127 foot cliff.  Now that is quite a cliff! I have visited there several times.  Tours are available and it is operated by the Minnesota Historical Society.  And I will say the gift shop is pretty awesome too for all the Lighthouse items you can imagine! Truly awesome to learn how the structure was built and to hear the stories of how it has helped mariners on the turbulent waters of Lake Superior.

Split Rock Lighthouse-Minnesota

 

St. Joseph Lighthouse ~ Michigan

Shown here is the St. Joseph Lighthouse on Lake Michigan. (St. Joseph, Michigan) Since it is situated across from Chicago on Lake Michigan, lighthouses were built at the St. Joseph location dating back to 1832, but the current structures were built in 1907. This is a lighthouse with such character and seems rather diminutive with it's small "partner" building. The lighthouse itself is not that tall, but sits atop the pier as it juts out  approximately 1,000 feet out onto the turbulent waters of Lake Michigan.  I have walked all the way to the end of the pier to take in the view from the lighthouse.  Catwalks above the pier were built so that the lighthouse keepers could access the lights when the seas were rough and waved crashed over the pier. Walking on the pier on a sunny, summer day, I envisioned what it would have been like on the catwalks with snow and ice below you.

St. Joseph Lighthouse in winter, Michigan

This particular lighthouse is frequently photographed when artfully depicted covered with snow and ice; as shown in the photo here.

So the next time you have an opportunity to visit a lighthouse, take the time to enjoy it’s unique design and think of its rich history. Ask a local about the history and the folktales of the lighthouse...I'll bet there is a story to hear.

Return to Alaska 2-Seward

 

Definitely Not a folly, Mr. Seward

Seward, Alaska is a charming city that has so many great things to offer that are quintessentially Alaskan. The city of Seward was named for President Lincoln's Secretary of State, William Henry Seward, the man who negotiated the purchase of the state of Alaska from Russia in 1867.  Seward signed a treaty with Russia for the purchase of  Alaska for $7 million. Despite the bargain price of roughly two cents an acre, the Alaskan purchase was ridiculed in Congress and by many of the American public as "Seward’s folly,” or “Seward’s icebox,”.  After the Civil War, Seward saw the potential in the land and was an advocate of  territorial expansion. He was eager to acquire the tremendous landmass of Alaska, an area roughly one-fifth the size of the rest of the United States. The city of Seward's official motto is: "Alaska starts Here" and certainly showcases so many of the things that Alaska has to offer.  So you may have been ridiculed at the time Mr. Seward, but you knew a good thing when you saw it.....and what a beautiful land it is!

Relatively easy to get to,  Seward is only a 2 1/2 hour drive from Anchorage on the scenic Seward Highway. The city is nestled between the mountains and the sea and has the beautiful Resurrection Bay as it's playground. Surrounded by glaciers and landscapes that support an abundance of wildlife and fauna, the Resurrection Bay was formed by millions of years of glacial activity and is now a deep fjord 35 miles long on the southeastern coast of the Kenai Peninsula.

 Kenai Fjords National Park~~ Photo from Major Marine Tours

Also found stemming from Seward is The Kenai Fjords National Park. This park was originally established as a National Monument in 1978, and became a National Park under the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act of 1980. Most access to the park is via tour boats out of Seward. Several wildlife and glacial cruises are available. Out on the water traveling along the coastline, it is a great way to see glaciers, marine mammals and seabirds. A view of the Harding Icefield, which covers over half of the acreage in the Park, is an amazing relic from the last ice age and truly takes one's breath away. The huge fields of ice advancing between the mountain caverns and a calving glacier are amazing and can sometimes make a person feel relatively small, in the scheme of things. Nearly 40 glaciers flow from the Harding Icefield. The boat tours are worth taking the time when visiting Seward.  Exit Glacier is the only portion of the park that may be accessed by road. There are two Visitor Center's available: one at Exit Glacier and one on Resurrection Bay in Seward. The park itself is open year round, but it's important to note that both Visitor's Centers, and many boat tours, have only summer operations: from May to early September.

It's a fisherman's paradise here and many charters are available. A good start would be a visit to The Fish House at 1303 4th Ave. They have lots of information on charters, equipment and anything and everything you need for fishing. Not only is it for fishing, it's a pretty cool hardware store, too with a few little souvenir items. For more information check out their web site at: https://www.thefishhouse.net/  Sport Fishing in the area includes Halibut, Salmon and Rockfish.  Seward is known as one of the top five ports in Alaska for commercial fisheries.

The Alaska SeaLife Center in Seward is celebrating their 20th year of operation. It opened in 1998 as an educational aquarium and rehabilitative center for marine animals. It is a wonderful place to get up close and personal with marine life creatures that you normally would not have access to. They have a wonderful aviary with an array of seabirds to view. In the lower level viewing area there is an amazing tank that you can view sea lions swimming and diving right in front of you! In addition to the various fish displayed there is an octopus, who always seems to be a big hit with the spectators. Also at the Center is a "touch tank" where you can gently touch and feel what sea cucumbers and starfish actually feel like. An amazing experience, but that arctic water is REALLY cold; touch tank experiences are usually brief! Of course there is a gift shop for obtaining a souvenir of your visit. It is good to know that your purchase goes to help support the Center as both a public aquarium and the stewardship of Alaska's marine ecosystems.

I think I would be remiss, if I did not include in this discussion about the Alaska Sea Life Center, the devastating event in history that in some ways spawned the creation of this wonderful center: the Exxon Valdez oil spill of 1989.  On March 24, 1989 the Exxon Valdez supertanker spilled 10.8 million gallons of crude oil into Prince William Sound. I remember that devastating event and even today some consider it the worst man-made environmental disaster. After this disaster, years of litigation and civil settlements helped to create new wildlife rehabilitation programs in addition, of course, better regulations regarding the transportation of crude oil.  The Alaska Sea Life center was also created by collaborative efforts of local marine scientists and also Alaska legislature appropriations.  For more information on this must see destination in Seward, see their site at: http://www.alaskasealife.org

"Fog Woman" by Jennifer Headtke
 (part of the Raven trilogy)

 Walking around the streets of Seward you see wonderful examples of the rich heritage and artistic influence as depicted in all the murals around town.  In 2008, Seward was voted the "Mural Capitol of Alaska"  and an organization has been established to promote and maintain the artwork. The murals cover a diversity of topics including the history of Seward, commercial fishing in the area, the Iditarod trail, the natural world and the heritage of the Native Alaskans.  So when taking a walking tour of Seward, have your camera ready and your eyes open...you will see murals just about every 2 blocks.  There are several murals that I missed, guess I better go back! Also, there are at least 6 art galleries/gift shops that display wonderful artwork by Native Alaskans and art that is reflecting the Alaskan spirit.

So head down the Seward Highway and get ready to experience this quintessential Alaskan port city. JES

Return to Alaska

 I am returning soon to Alaska...both literally and figuratively speaking.

Literally, because I just booked our tickets to Anchorage with my fingers crossed that it won't get postponed (again) because of COVID. Really looking forward to a visit with family there and also family in Seattle. It will be wonderful to see these folks and also to enjoy the beauty of the Great North. Since we have family there, we have been several times, but I am always excited about the prospect of exploring something new. This trip we hope to see some new sights in Anchorage and an extra trip to Seward. 

Figurately speaking, I am returning to the topic of Alaska with respect to my blog and my book.  So many changes took place in the last year in my little corner of the blogging world. I eliminated my "travel" blog for many reasons that I won't extrapolate on here...so I am now down to just one blog: Outlooks and Inspirations. It occurred to me that many of my interesting travel features were not shared on this particular blog; so I thought I would like to share some of my favorites here. Also, my National Park book is in the process of revision and publication with a new publisher.  Frankly I am very excited about that, more on that later. 

The following article about Alaska is one of my favorites about this beautiful state.  It is from my book about the National Park Service and is focused on the National Parks: "The Alaska Parks".  I purposely omitted several photographs...you will just need to purchase my book for the additional photos! (...shameless plug...I am my only marketing manager, remember?)

I have another blog post about the city of Seward, which we plan on returning to also.  I will publish that as a separate post.

The Alaska Parks

Alaska beckons. The mountains are calling. The pines whisper and the frozen tundra holds curiosities beneath.  The unique lands showcased in the parks there demonstrate its reputation as The Last Frontier.  Alaska is a youthful state, gaining statehood in 1959, but the marvels of this land are timeless.  There are 8 National Parks and 16 National wildlife refuges in the state of Alaska making it the leading state in the volume of protected lands.

Horseshoe Lake at Denali National Park

Like much of the state, Alaska’s parks and lands live up to their reputation as being the “Last Frontier”.  The breathtaking beauty of the forested lands, the snowcapped peaks and the diversity of wildlife is showcased in the parks. Yet, because of the ruggedness of the land, some of the places are very hard to get to and are not frequently visited. That could be good or bad depending on your perspective.  Out of the eight National Parks in Alaska, I have visited three of them; as it turns out the three that are the most accessible.

Probably the easiest to access and one of Alaska’s most popular attractions is Denali National Park.

Denali is  Alaska’s most well-known national park and is actually more readily accessible than some of the other remote parks.  Denali averages over  400,000 visitors annually. The flag ship feature of the park is the 20,320 feet high mountain peak known for thousands of years by the Athabascans as Denali, or “The High One”.

So What’s in a Name?  The park we know today as Denali National Park was founded in 1917 by Woodrow Wilson as Mount McKinley National Park. The name of the Park has been a controversy since its inception.  There are certain ironies that one can’t help but ponder on. First, the name McKinley was taken from our 25th President William McKinley. McKinley himself had never traveled to Alaska.  Perhaps he would have gone to see the majestic mountain and park, but sadly he was assassinated in September of 1901. Charles Sheldon, a naturalist and conservationist, advocated from the start the name of Denali for both the park and the mountain. The locals called it Denali, and the debate continued for decades. Finally in 1980, many continued to favor the name Denali after the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act changed the park’s name to Denali National Park and Preserve. But the official name of the mountain remained Mount McKinley.  Then just prior to the National Park Service centennial year in 2016, the mountain was reverted to the name Denali. While visiting Alaska in September of 2015, President Barack Obama announced the official name change of the mountain.

Keeping the “wild” in Alaskan wilderness.  The vastness and diverse ecosystems of the park are beautifully preserved and presented to visitors by virtue of how the park is operated and maintained.  Unlike other National Parks, access into the park is restricted and controlled by only one road, 90 miles long into the park.  Personal vehicles are not allowed beyond the 15 mile mark on the park road; only the shuttle buses taking visitors back and forth from several destinations. This may seem odd at first, but when you take a bus trip into the park it helps you to understand  how this system helps to minimize car travel and reduce the carbon footprint on this wilderness. Riders are free to get on and off the bus as they please.  Another distinct advantage is that you are much more likely to view an abundance of wildlife.  The animals have become accustomed to the big tan buses along the road and are more likely to view them as just a part of the landscape. When we went, we observed, from the safety of the bus, a mama Grizzly helping her two cubs to hunt a ground squirrel. That was an experience I will never forget.

In addition to the park road, the trails allow foot traffic within the park for both the casual hiker and the seasoned veteran. Some of the more seasoned hikers are encouraged to “make their own trail”, but for the casual hikers there are several trails starting closer to the Visitors Center.  An easy hike, 1.5 miles, to the beautiful plateau above Horseshoe Lake provides ample opportunities for stunning photographs. 

Wildlife thrives in the vastness of the park and the “Big Five” have been designated as:  grizzly bears, wolves, moose, caribou and Dall sheep.  It may be a personal goal to view all five, but don’t be too disappointed if you don’t view them all. You can always pick up a coffee mug or t-shirt with all of them on it; sounds a bit touristy but a great way to remember your visit.

My family and I saw a grizzly and her cubs from quite a distance and also a mother moose and her cubs, but sometimes it’s very cool to also capture them on a souvenir. Not quite the same as seeing them in real life, but it’s so neat to bring back the memories of your trip and be able to say you’ve been to Denali. Wolves and grizzlies are not as easily seen, but the abundance of Moose in the park makes it almost a sure bet you will see them at some point. Depending on the year, the moose population within the park fluctuates of course, but the National Park Service estimates about 1,800 Moose at Denali.  That’s alot of Moose!  Just FYI, the plural of Moose is Moose…good to know.

 “Mush, Doggies! Mush!” You can’t get up close and personal with a grizzly, but at Denali you can get close and cuddly with the sled dogs.  In the winter months, the best way to get around from here to there within the park is still by sled dog team.  One of the must see attractions at Denali is the sled dog demos and a visit to the kennels.   Even if you are visiting in the summer, they have to keep the dog’s training going year round, so they add small wheels to the sleds to run them on all terrains.  During the summer tourist season, they have 3 daily dog sled demonstrations.  The Park Service runs several shuttles to the kennels.  When I was there I was amazed to find out the importance of the use of dog sleds within the park and also within the state of Alaska.  The most famous, well -known sled dog race, the Iditarod, has a colorful and intriguing history.  Portions of the Iditarod trail were used as early as the 1880’s, However the most famous event in the history of Alaskan mushing  is the 1925 serum run to Nome; also known as the “Great Race of Mercy.” A large diphtheria epidemic threatened Nome. The only way to get the antitoxin to Nome was by sled dog, due to unusable planes and ships in the worst of winter.  So on January 27, the port at Seward had received the serum where it was passed to the first of twenty mushers and more than 100 dogs who relayed the package 674 miles from Nenana to Nome. The dogs ran in relays, with no dog running over 100 miles. Wow, I hear that story and am amazed of the courage and tenacity of those mushers and their dogs. No wonder it has become an inspiring tale; both for those that participate in the Iditarod and those that watch on the sidelines.  All an amazing part of the Alaska experience.

Another very accessible Alaska  park , via Seward, is Kenai Fjords National Park . It covers about 950 square miles and showcases some of the iconic features of Alaska including glaciers, marine life and coastal scenery. 

A large majority of the Park is either in the waterways or frozen icefields, so one of the best ways to get an overview of the park is via a tour boat from Seward into Resurrection Bay and parts of the Gulf of Alaska.  There are several tours available from the starting point of Seward for both wildlife viewing and fishing excursions. We went on an afternoon cruise with Major Marine Tours.  Getting out on the water gives you a great overview of one of the crowning features of the Park: the Harding Icefield.  It is 70 miles long and 30 miles wide and creates all the glaciers in Kenai Fjords National Park.  It is incredible to see-and hear- the glaciers “calve” icebergs into the bay by releasing massive chunks of ice into the water.

Additionally, on the boat tour, we were able to see numerous examples of Alaska marine life.  We saw Stellar Sea Lions, Bald Eagles and an abundance of Puffins and Kittiwakes.  Puffins were always my favorite. They look so cute and pudgy and seemingly awkward, but they are fast flyers and divers with excellent fishing skills.

 Another aspect of our tour at Kenaj Fjords was my first introduction to the concept of the “Land of the Midnight Sun”.   Since we were there in August, the long days and short, short nights were very evident. At the end of the tour we came back to the harbor, pulling up to the dock and the sun was still  high on the horizon.  It felt like about 6 or 7 pm, but it was 10 pm. So odd. Now I know why residents of Alaska purchase “black out” curtains to get a good night sleep.  Yet, as a tourist it’s great because you  can fill so many things in one day and you don’t run out of daylight.

The only road in the Park, ends at the Exit Glacier parking lot. From there you can take an easy hike to view the glacier face. It is one of the most accessible glaciers in Alaska and terrific to view, but sadly is also a very visible indicator of glacial recession due to climate change.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. 

Another impressive Park that holds such beauty but is somewhat more challenging to journey to is Wrangell- St. Elias  National Park and Preserve. It is  on the eastern side of the state about 250 miles from Anchorage.

Wrangell- St. Elias is a vast national park that holds the title of the largest of our national parks at 13.2 million acres.  To provide some perspective, the park is the same size as Yellowstone National Park, Yosemite National Park, and Switzerland combined! The combined mountain ranges in the park: Wrangell and St. Elias contain 9 of the 16 highest mountain peaks in the U.S.

Also within the Park reside the remnants of the historic Kennecott Mine and a very interesting visitor’s center explaining what life was like in the glory days of copper mining.  It’s a fascinating place to visit because it is a demonstration of the tenacity and ingenuity of the human spirit. When traveling the McCarthy Road to get to the mine, you feel as if you are already on an adventure, and you sometimes have to reach into your own resolve when seeking this destination.

The McCarthy Road is 60 miles long and is a long gravel road. Here is a photo showing where the nice smooth pavement ends and the gravel road & imposing cliffs begin. It is intimidating when all the travel literature warns NOT to take rental cars on this road and other warnings for the faint of heart. It was a rough ride with several portions of the road demonstrating the “wash-board” effect, a series of tight ridges.  I give my sister-in-law, Christy, so much credit: she drove both in and out on this challenging stretch of road.  We took her mini-van, which worked well and we took it slowly.  That is the key to surviving on this road without a flat tire or worse damage to your vehicle.  It is only 60 miles, but plan for about 3 hours. It is well worth the trip if you take your time. You can see so much more when you are traveling at 30 mph as opposed to 65.

Be sure to catch all the scenery and wildlife along the way and the views are spectacular. This is the Kuskalana Bridge, built in 1910, it spans 525 feet and sits at a height 238 feet above the river. An incredible building accomplishment and yes we drove across it. Having a little bit of a fear of heights (don’t we all to some extent) I had to hold my breath and somehow muster up the courage to take in the view.  Be courageous and take in the view, it’s worth it. 

So travelling along the rustic McCarthy Road, you eventually meet your destination: the McCarthy/Kennecott settlement and the Kennecott Mine.  Nestled in the snow capped mountains of the Wrangell-St. Elias range, the Copper Mine was closed in 1938. It stands silent watch above the valley and the steep drop offs that are common to the area.

When visiting the abandoned mine, the sheer majesty of its size gives you a whole new appreciation for the people who lived and worked here. The structure of the main mill has such an ominous presence that even if it is not haunted it still has an alarming presence that truly is awe-inspiring. The building of the mine itself, and the surrounding buildings supporting the workers, initially seemed to be insurmountable tasks. To bring buildings materials in through the rugged mountain passes, the first priority was to build a railroad. In addition to helping construct the new city and mine, the copper ore was transported via railroad south to Cordova. When visiting Kennecott, I walked along the original rails that line up with the chutes, where the rock crusher spit out processed rock and ore that was further refined.

Remnants of the tools that were used in the labor intensive process of mining are found strewn about the area. Here my son Dan surveys the rugged Wrangell Mountains while standing by an ancient rock crusher, circa early 1930’s. Also remnants of the life that was left behind after the mine closed are still visible and one gets a strange sensation that memories and spirits of the past still are present here.  It seems to have had more recent activity in the mine than the footsteps of tourists and it is hard to believe it closed more than 75 years ago.  Nevertheless, as one of those tourists, I found it a fascinating historical place to visit and taking in the natural beauty of the park was an inherent bonus.

The National Park Service acquired the mine in 1998 and the lands of the historic mining town of Kennecott.  The mine has been designated a National Historic Landmark.  On the Wrangell-St. Elias website: www.nps.gov/wrst life working in the mine is described: “Kennecott was a place of long hours and hard, dangerous work.  At the height of operation about six hundred men worked in the mines and mill town. Paying salaries higher than those found in the lower-48, Kennecott was able to attract men willing to live and work in this remote Alaskan mining camp…..Despite the dangers and grueling work, the Kennecott workers mined and concentrated at least $200 million worth of ore.”
The mine successfully ran for over 30 years, but was closed due to declining copper deposits and the high cost of railway maintenance.

 It would be quite a challenge to see all eight of Alaska’s parks, yet even taking the opportunity to visit a few definitely gives you an appreciation for this most beautiful land. Alaska is full of breathtaking vistas, welcoming people and places that create memorable trips of a lifetime.